Visiting Las Pozas, Xilitla: Edward James’ Surrealist Garden.

Walking around in this concrete garden of Eden you are constantly amazed by these incredible structures where unpredictability lies around every corner. Narrow paths and mind-bending shapes all embraced by the vegetation of the jungle, you find yourself strolling around for hours completely losing all sense of time. It is so much bigger than I could’ve imagined and after an hour we had already lost each other in this architectural maze.

The history of Las Pozas, Xilitla

Las Pozas is the creation of Edward James, an eccentric English poet, and patron of the surrealist movement over a period of 20 years. He funded his project by selling artworks, poems, and with the help of money he inherited from his father. James’ father made his fortune in the railroad and mining industry. He loved all kinds of animals and housed ocelots and flamingos. Edward was often seen with his green parrots on his shoulder.

At one point over 29000 orchids and other plants were counted within the grounds, but a rare snowstorm that lasted for 3 days killed almost all of them and some of his exotic animals. After this James began rebuilding his garden, replacing the real flowers with concrete ones, flowers that could withstand all weather condition. He dedicated a lot of his wealth and time for the next 20 years creating these towering surrealistic structures that today stretch over 80 acres (32 ha). The structures interlace with natural waterfalls and pools in the subtropical rainforest.

Edward James believes that his ambition for this fantasy world was developed from a young age when he was often forced into his room. He would lay in his bed where he would invent a world within his mind where his blankets became a flying city and Aladdin’s palace would fly over the world.

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It is an interesting experience passing over bridges without a railing, through gothic arches, and climbing staircases ending in mid-air and platforms where you stand level with the forest canopy like you are walking on top of the dense jungle with views over the avatar-like world.

All around are faces with almost childlike expressions of excitement and wonder. I get a feeling that this was exactly what James wanted to give his visitors. After a few hours of solo exploring, we found each other again and both of us were pretty eager to tell each other what we had seen. We visited a few more places and ended our day by the waterfalls to relax and cool down.

What not to miss in Las Pozas, Xilitla

There are some structures and places that are so spectacular that you just don’t want to miss. The staff are friendly and will direct you to them but it helps to know the names. Here is a list of our favorites.

• “The bamboo palace” is the most famous structure of them all with pillars reaching high toward the sky with the top plateau offering the most mesmerizing view. The popular photo spot is located on the plateau above.
• “The three-story house that might have five”. The pillars were reinforced to be able to hold a lot of weight and many projects were planned the same day as they were built.
• “The road to the seven deadly sins”. The snakes come up from the ground to your left and huge mushrooms to your right. This is close to the entrance.
• “Stairway to heaven”. This is visible from outside the park and the first grand structure you see as you enter.
• “The general waterfall”. A stunning three section fall with little mushroom-like structures at the foot and a decent sized pool which you are allowed to swim in! This is the only thing in the park that actually exists on google maps.
• “Cinema with no seats”. A spiraling staircase, domes, and pillars with a view over the jungle.
• “Library with no books”.
• “Hut of Don Eduardo”. We sat amongst the pillars looking over the canopy. The staff will help you at this site as it is in a quite fragile state.

Things to bring

The hour or two we had planned to stay ended up being closer to 5 hours so I would suggest bringing a bag to fully enjoy everything as you have to buy a new ticket if you exit the park. Food is not allowed to be taken in but I am sure you could sneak a few snacks past security.

There is a restaurant inside where they serve smoothies, sweet bread, toast, and more. We did buy tasty vegan Gorditas for $1.50 USD from one of the vendors outside and they also had tacos, tamales, and sweet homemade treats for less than half price compared to the restaurant inside.

Below is a list over other things that I would suggest bringing.

• Water, I would suggest at least one to two liters per person (1/2 gallon) you could also use one of these life straw water bottles with a built-in water filter and refill it from anywhere. This also means you don’t need to buy plastic water bottles.
• Swimwear and towel, the pools and waterfalls are incredible and great for a dip
• Walking shoes
• Sunblock. There is also a range of environmentally sustainable sunscreens you can buy that will help reduce the impact on the waterways and environment.
• Umbrella
• Insect repellant, again check out the link here to sustainable products.
• Money

How to get to Las Pozas, Xilitla

Las Pozas Xilitla is located about 8 hours north of Mexico city and there are several ways to get here but we strongly suggest renting a car as the road is very windy and the drive can be long. San Luis Potosi is incredibly beautiful and there are many other things to experience in this region.

If you are taking the bus an affordable option is the Primera Plus bus from several cities like Mexico City, Querétaro, and San Luis Potosi.

We drive everywhere but if that is not your thing and you don’t like long drives or simply just do not have the time then flying to Las Pozas is an option. Not actually Xilitla but much closer than Mexico City.

The easiest way is probably to fly to Mexico City from where ever you are. From Mexico City, there are several flights daily to Tampico. You can also fly to Tampico via Houston or Monterrey. Flying into Queretaro is also an option but if you are flying you may as well try for the closest airport.

If time is a major concern your best option after flying is probably to hire a driver for the day to take you to Xilitla. It eradicates time in dealing with a rental company, finding parking and you will also hopefully not get lost.

There are a few incredible waterfalls that are close by Las Pozas that you might want to check out also.

Puente De Dios is one absolutely beautiful spot I would highly recommend checking out while in the area.

Salto Del Agua is a little further away but still very very worth the drive if you have the time.

When to go to Las Pozas, Xilitla

Las Pozas should be avoided during the Holy week and Easter weekend. Crowds get crazy and you might have to wait in line for up to 3 hours. For faster entry, you can purchase tickets at their offsite office inside the Leonora Carrington museum in Xilitla. Maximum 5 tickets per party apply and the price is 100mxn and 50mxn for children under 12 years old and seniors over 65. Every year on Edward James birthday, August 16th, there are different activities being held in his honor.

To know before your go to Laz posas!

• Entrance fee 70 pesos. 
• Go early. It gets crowded and you will also beat the heat.
• Guided tours are prioritized and get to go in first. 
• Small children should be closely supervised due to to the lack of railings, steep drops and the fact that it is very easy to get lost in here.

Hoteles in Xilitla

There are many options for places to stay in Xilitla here are a few we picked out ranging in price.

Budget

Casa Jhada was our pick and is a popular hotel with a strong rating on booking. There is a restaurant which serves several traditional Mexican dishes like Quesadillas, Tacos and Mole con Arroz. It is also located well within walking distance of Las Pozas.

Posada Jardin has high reviews and in their Queen room, you will get an attached bathroom, Wifi, fan, and even a balcony! There is also private parking for the guests.  Distance is 0.93mi (1.5 km) to Las Pozas.

Midrange

Hotel CaféNaranja is a modern hotel with a breathtaking view of the mountains. They offer free Wifi, balcony, private bathroom, air condition. Breakfast can be purchased in the restaurant. Distance to Las Pozas is 0.80mi (1.3km).

Luxury

Camino Surreal is a beautiful Hotel. They have a lush yard where you can enjoy a swim in the pool and enjoy their popular Banana bread. The room has a private bathroom, wifi, air condition, and a balcony. Distance to Las Pozas is 0.75mi (1,2km).

It is one of the most incredible places I have ever seen and I find it hard to compare to anything else. They call it the 10th wonder of the world and I can really see why. My cheeks were sore from smiling the entire day and the number of times I expressed ohh and woow must be some kind of record. I couldn’t recommend a visit highly enough, this one is definitely bucket list worthy!